Non-invasive treatments to help with appearance

In the past, there were fewer options for procedures that could help to improve the appearance of the skin or to eliminate fat, and fewer still that were non-surgical. Nowadays though, cosmetic skin clinics can offer new and often groundbreaking treatments such as hand rejuvenation, skin hydration and CoolSculpting. All of these treatments are different, and target different areas of the body, but all of them can help you to achieve the appearance that you desire.

Hand rejuvenation

As one would expect, hand rejuvenation is a treatment for the hands. More specifically though, it is a treatment that aims to help dry skin, wrinkly skin and age spots that have developed on the hands over time. This treatment will usually be done using Radiesse or Restylane Skinboosters.

Radiesse is what’s known as a ‘dermal filler’. This means that it is a fluid that is injected into the skin – in this case, into the hands – to cause the skin to increase in volume, which helps to get rid of wrinkles by giving the skin more elasticity. Furthermore, Radiesse contains calcium based micro-spheres, which are useful in getting the skin to produce more of its own collagen naturally. This collagen gives the skin a texture and appearance that is more lifted and contoured.

Restylane Skinboosters use a series of micro injections to inject fluid into the hands. This fluid absorbs water and improves deep skin hydration, giving your hands better firmness and smoothness.

Skin hydration

There are several treatments which aim to improve the hydration of the skin. Many of them use hyaluronic fluid to target and improve the condition of dry skin, as well as improve the skin’s elasticity and reduce the amount of skin imperfections. One such treatment that does this is Juvéderm Hydrate.

Juvéderm Hydrate is an injectable treatment that aims to improve skin hydration specifically in the face, neck, chest and hands. It aims to provide deep hydration within the skin to help it retain a healthy glow. After the injections, you should notice that your skin is more hydrated almost immediately. Furthermore, this treatment has no downtime associated with it and so you should be able to resume your normal activities immediately after the treatment as well.


This is a popular treatment which is designed to decrease the amount of fat across various different areas of the body, in particular, in areas which are resistant to typical methods of diet and exercise. This treatment is also sometimes known as ‘fat freezing’, on account of the fact that it works by cooling and crystallising your body’s fat cells, which causes them to die, this then allows your body to remove these cells as a part of its own natural system. Currently, it is the only FDA (Food and Drug Administration) approved, non-surgical procedure to reduce fat across the body. Most people will see the continual, long-lasting results of this treatment at around 2 to 6 months after the initial treatment. Furthermore, as it is completely non-surgical, there is usually very little downtime, with most people being able to go to work again the day after receiving treatment.

Creating Beautiful Smiles

A dentist in Sydney CBD is always dedicated and confident in providing their patients with new smiles that are aligned to their oral health plan and aesthetic goals.  This means that a range of different treatments can be offered, that when combined, can become a bespoke treatment plan that meets all of a patient’s requirements.

There are three fields of dentistry, preventive, restorative and cosmetic, and oral health care professionals are able to work within these three realms to accommodate all of the needs that a patient has regarding their smile.

Let’s go over them

Preventive care is fast becoming a priority for many modern dental practices where a lot of investments have been made in the development of tools and equipment designed to improve identification of decay and disease in the early stages.  This means that preventive care can be more beneficial to individual patients and combined with bespoke education, can ensure that one’s teeth remain cavity free and are healthy and strong for as long as possible.

Suitable for people of all ages, preventive dentistry can also involve several treatments that aim at protecting teeth when general brushing and flossing may not be as good as it can be.  Young children learn from an early age the importance of brushing, however; it can be difficult to get into those deep grooves in the back-chewing teeth.

Cavities are common in these teeth, so by sealing these deep grooves before decay can strike, dental professionals are ensuring that they are protecting these young teeth from unnecessary damage.

Restorative care is focused on improving the quality of oral health by fixing teeth when needed.  If a tooth becomes injured, diseased or decayed, for a patient’s overall quality of health, something needs to be done about it.  Unless the situation is dire, a dental professional will not extract the tooth but seek to repair it to best functionality where possible.

It is always better to keep original teeth in the mouth for as long as possible, however, every situation is different.  An oral health care professional will discuss the situation with their patient on a case by case basis.

And finally, cosmetic care deals with how a person feels about the appearance of their teeth, and seeks to improve both the health of an individual’s smile and how it looks.  Many professionals who work in this field have an eye for beauty and enjoy bringing out their patient’s true beauty from within.

By making sure that cosmetic treatments look and feel as natural as possible, there is a greater likelihood of a successfully satisfied patient.  Both patient and dentist should discuss the options together so that they are aligned in their plans.

It is important for a patient to discuss goals and plans with staff members at the dental clinic so that everyone is on board with what will ideally happen.  This is particularly important should a patient have some degree of dental fear and is nervous about upcoming consultations or procedures.

Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.

How could your smile be improved by a dentist in Harley Street?

Maximise your true potential

Everyone wants to make a good, lasting impression.  Whatever the occasion or situation may be, we all want to make an impact and present the best possible version of ourselves to the world.  That being said, a great many of us often feel let down by the appearance of our smiles.  Whether our teeth are stained, discoloured, crooked or overlapping, it can lead to a high amount of stress and anxiety.  However, rather than simply opting not to smile – which, as you can imagine has seriously negative implications your social confidence – those who are self-conscious about the way their smiles look ought to turn to the aid of a dentist in W1 to help them overcome their superficial issues and present a smile to the world that they can truly be proud of.

Cosmetic tooth whitening

One of the most widely requested forms of cosmetic dentistry today, is cosmetic whitening.  This is a process which can have a truly transformative impact on both the smiles and the self-esteem of those who opt for it.  Tooth whitening aims to rid a patient’s teeth of any amount of stains, discolouration or yellowness which may have been caused by a number of things.  As we get older, we often find that the natural enamel of our teeth becomes duller or grey-ish, despite our vigorous brushing habits.  This, sadly, is a natural byproduct of aging and can leave many with a diminished sense of self-confidence. Additionally, those who smoke or excessively consume highly-acidic food or drinks can often find their teeth to become stained or yellowed over time.  Cosmetic whitening however gives patients the power to reverse this dullness and restore their teeth to their natural, whiter beauty.  This is achieved through the application of a peroxide-based gel directly to the front of the patient’s teeth – either within their dental practice, or at home through a dentist approved home-whitening kit. When a thin layer of this gel is applied to the patient’s teeth, the bleaching agent within it begins to eradicate any discoloration or staining to their teeth and bring about the natural whiteness that they desire.

Gum reshaping

Another method of cosmetic dentistry which can help restore the self-esteem of those who require it, is gum reshaping treatment, or a ‘gum lift’.  This is called for in cases where patients gum level is uneven, which results in them having a crooked or ‘gummy’ smile. Those who have uneven gum levels often find it to impede their social wellbeing and ability to interact and smile freely amongst others, as they are often embarrassed over exposing their unshapely gums.  However, through seeking out a ‘gum lift’ the excess gum tissue over a patient’s teeth is removed, either through a painless dental laser or the removal of bone tissue in more severe cases.  Those who undergo this form of cosmetic dentistry generally find it to have a long-lasting impact on them both orally and socially as their gum health is vastly increased – as the risk of Gingivitis or gum disease is greatly reduced – and they no longer have to hide their smiles out of social embarrassment, so they can flourish and enjoy life to the fullest.

How much does it cost to remodel a condo?


When it comes to remodeling a condominium, the exact cost of the project will depend on several factors including the size, location, building permits, financing fees, the existing condition of the unit and the cost of contractors. In general, prices can differ quite a bit across the country, the total costs here in Mountain View, California could be very different for the same project in San Jose. Before you begin you should check with the condo board to see exactly what types of renovations are allowed and if there are any special rules or bylaws that need to be followed. If the building is older you may also find it doesn’t meet modern building codes in some instances. This could affect the cost of things such as heating systems as well as plumbing and electrical.

How Extensive Are Your Renovations?

Of course, the extent and quality of the remodeling job will also be a big factor. Do you plan on completely renovating the unit from top to bottom or just completing some minor renovations? This will affect the total cost of materials and labour as you may be including items such as removing walls, plumbing, doors, heating, air conditioning, windows, flooring, appliances, cabinets, countertops, furniture, lighting, and painting etc. Once you’ve decided the scope of the renovation project you can look for a home remodeling contractor in the Mountain View area to do the work if one is needed. Of course, you can keep the costs down if you’re able to complete some of the work yourself.

Pricing Appliances & Fixtures

When you’ve located a suitable contractor you can explain exactly what your vision is for the renovation and then receive a quote on the work. If you’re buying new appliances and/or furniture etc you can price those yourself by doing some comparison shopping and include them in the budget. The more existing items you decide to keep will result in lower costs and it will naturally be pricier if you decide to replace everything. The cost will also rise if you decide to secure a loan to pay for the work and materials since the odds are you’ll need to pay interest on the borrowed amount. It’s always a good idea to see where you can borrow money with the lowest interest fees.

Include Everything In Your Budget

You should be aware that many condo owners go over even the most detailed of budgets as they decide to add or change things to the renovation along the way. When working out your budget try not to overlook anything at all as you will need to pay for permits, fees, labour, materials, delivery and furniture etc. You may find nit’s easier to create a budget for each room or area of the condo you’re renovating. Also, if you’re completely overhauling the unit it may not be inhabitable for awhile and you may need to stay somewhere else during the work and/or find yourself eating out at restaurants or with friends or family.

A true budget can only be created once you know the cost of everything involved in the job. This means if you’re using a contractor to complete some or all of the work you’re really going to need an accurate quote from him or her. Once you know the relative cost of their work you can add in the price of items you’ll be taking care of such as appliances and furniture. Their quote will be the starting point and you can then control the remaining amount of the budget by carefully adding the cost of items to it. What you will ultimately spend in this portion of the budget will entirely depend on you.

What You Need To Do Before Renovating Your Condo


If you plan on renovating or remodeling your condominium there are certain things you should be aware of before you get underway. Since your living space resides in a building with other tenants it’s important to follow the letter of the law as well as the building’s rules and regulations.

We have listed some tips below which should come in hand when planning a condo renovation.  But the very first thing you need to do is to get yourself a good home renovation contractor to help you along the way, they are invaluable when making critical decisions in the renovation process.

The contractor we hired was the one my aunt used when they added a sun room addition their Toronto home, their home addition contractor was great to work with and came highly recommended.

Check local laws, rules and regulations

It’s important to find out exactly if any type of building permits are required by the local government. You also need to ask the condominium board or owners if there are any specific rules and regulations you need to abide by. In general, each building is different and will have its own set of rules. For instance, you may have access to service elevators and only be allowed to work on the unit between certain hours or days due to noise restrictions. You also need to consider parking spots and loading zones for the contractors. In addition, if you plan on changing the flooring materials be sure to ask if the new material is allowed. In some cases, hardwood floors may be banned.

Plan on parking costs

If you reside in a downtown condo building such as in Toronto, you may find parking for the contractors difficult to find. If they need to pay for parking in a nearby lot you’ll need to include the cost in your overall budget.

Schedule the workload

Most condos are relatively small in size. You may need to schedule the workload so the contractors such as plumbers and electricians aren’t getting in each other’s way. You may also need to make enough room so the contractors can store their tools and building materials etc.

Expect delays

it’s a good idea if you plan on experiencing some delays during the renovation project. These are almost always unavoidable for whatever reason. However, if they don’t arise you’ll be on schedule and certainly in a better frame of mind.

Renovation for resale

If you plan on renovating the condo for the purpose of resale you may be implementing some different ideas compared to renovating for personal use. If you plan on selling the unit you may want to speak to a real estate agent to find out which specific renovations will add to the resale value. You can also use a professional organizing service to help get your unit ready for sale. These could include the kitchen and bathrooms. You also need to ask the contractor if any walls or other elements/fixtures of the condo simply can’t be moved. If you plan on living in the unit then make sure you decorate it to suit your personal tastes.

Be flexible

Once the project gets underway you may need to be flexible in some areas. For example, you may decide you’d like more space so you may want to install smaller or fewer appliances or furniture.

Make alternate living arrangements

Depending on the extent of the renovation, you may need to find other living quarters while the work is being carried out. In some instances, you’ll be able to remain in the condo but may not be able to use the kitchen or bathroom for a specific period of time. You may need to stay with family/friends or even in a hotel. If you’re lucky, the condo building may even have guest suites for rent.

The cleanup

When hiring the contractors you should be clear on just who is responsible for the cleanup. Discuss it with the contractor and make sure the clean up is or isn’t included in the contract. If it isn’t included, be sure to hire a cleanup crew or plan on doing it yourself.

How Can One Get ‘Same Day Teeth’?

Those who have dentures and have been thinking about a more permanent and comfortable solution may have stumbled across the concept of ‘same-day teeth’ during their research. A wonderful solution and potentially the answer to many patients’ wishes, this treatment plan is a unique way in which people can gain confidence and freedom from their dental situation.

By coming in to see a dentist who can perform dental implants in Melbourne, patients are able to gain a better understanding as to whether same day teeth are suitable for them. There are some initial tests that need to be completed to ensure that a patient is viable for this treatment plan.

It is important not to become dissuaded from this, as if the treatment is not initially viable, it simply means that some prior procedures might be necessary before an all-on-four procedure can take place.

Who is this for?

Many denture wearers find that over the years their dentures begin to slip and fall out of their mouths, meaning that they begin to lose confidence with how they eat and how they act in social situations.

A solution is possible for this and it is simply a natural occurrence that is the cause of this common problem.

The jawbone gradually recedes over time as it is no longer stimulated by natural tooth roots that send pulses through the bone to cause it to grow and remain strong. As the bone recedes, the face can appear more sunken and dentures that were once comfortable no longer fit in the mouth as they should.

How does it work?

The original tooth implant concept has been adapted to suit a variety of different people and conditions, including the desire to stabilise dentures.

It works in basically the same way, where a titanium rod is used to create a stable base upon which a false tooth can be permanently placed. However, same day teeth uses four, perfectly positioned implants to create a stable base which dentures can be securely placed on to.

The ingenious concept allows individuals to remove their dentures when they want to and easily snap them back into position, allowing them to have that security in their smile, knowing that their teeth will not slip or fall out.

Because patients can leave the dental practice with a whole new smile in a single day, with a temporary set of new teeth placed directly onto their four tooth implants, the idea of same day teeth was born.

Dentists are interested in providing their patients with a sense of freedom and ease when it comes to their smile. Modern dentistry is changing and is all about healthy smiles for longer. Technology is constantly improving to the point where many patients are able to enjoy the benefits of natural looking and feeling teeth, which can give them a new lease on life like never before.

By seeking professional advice regarding denture stabilisation or same day teeth, individuals are able to gain a personalised understanding about how this treatment can make positive changes in their lives.

Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second

opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.

How We Organized The Beach House Kitchen | Young House Love

Someone asked me the other day for details on how we organized the beach house kitchen, which is something we photographed and filmed this summer to share with you guys, and when I went to send them the link to this post, I realized that we never actually wrote it! So yes, these pictures sat on the camera for months as my tan faded, along with memories of warm days spent with my toes in the sand (current status: toes in my Ugg slippers because it’s freezing!).

Years ago you guys liked having a look inside of our Richmond kitchen cabinets, so John and I had some fun snapping lots of organizing photos for this post last August (and filming what is perhaps the WEIRDEST video of our lives – please watch it if you can because I can’t even really explain what came over me, but John finds it highly amusing). Last summer was the first time we really put this kitchen to the test for more than just a long weekend, so it was our chance to make sure it was efficient and organized in a way that actually works. When the pantry is fully stocked and the dishes & appliances are getting daily use – that’s a good time to evaluate that sort of thing. And then we realized we could make some changes to make it work better, and those tips might be helpful for you (& your kitchen), so we’re sharing them all right here.

If you want to snoop inside literally EVERY drawer in this kitchen, you can catch it all in the video below. In full disclosure, this took us like 3 attempts to film because it kept taking me 20+ minutes to get through and then the camera would shut off because it was so long. And we just got loopier and loopier as we went. So this is a little “$herdog, Unfiltered” cabinet tour (or Untethered, you decide). Also it could be a drinking game if you chug something every time I make John gasp/yell/interject.

Note: If the video player is not showing above, you can watch it here on YouTube.

For those who can’t watch the video right now, let me give you some highlights – but really, go back & watch it because tips that you can see in motion along with “live” commentary = much more helpful generally than just one still shot with words trying to describe what’s going on. All of the cabinets in the main part of the kitchen have three drawers in them (apart from the sink cabinet) and our hardest-working one is to the left of the stove. In the top drawer we’ve got our flatware and knives, in the next drawer down are our plates and bowls, and the bottom/deepest drawer houses our pots & pans (more on that in a moment).

Storing our flatware and dishware here was a strategy based on dishwasher unloading. When the dishwasher is fully opened, one of us can plant our feet in one spot and unload virtually everything – no trekking back and forth across the room or bending up and down to load a wall cabinet. The fact that the dishwasher door cuts into the walking aisle? A non-issue! Because the ol’ feet are planted and we don’t have to walk anywhere.

I know some people think the idea of stacking dishes or bowls in a drawer is weird, but we’ve been doing it for years and love it (we got the idea from John’s sister who has been doing it over a decade without a single issue). A nice deep soft close drawer full of dishes = perfection. We did it at our Richmond house, here at the beach house, and in both duplex kitchens. Sometimes it helps to put a grippy drawer liner in if you worry about things slipping around or into one another. We’ve never had a single broken dish or chipped bowl. Not a one.

The thing I wanted you to see about the pots & pans in that bottom drawer is that we took advantage of the “hidden” drawer that Ikea offers as part of their standard kitchen system. It’s a shallow 5″ drawer (just as deep as the flatware drawer above) that can tuck inside a larger drawer – sort of nesting inside on the top quadrant of the drawer space.

You can see two of them in action in the video so watch that for a much better idea of how they work. We use a second one to store cutting boards in the same way in another zone of the kitchen (also shown in the video). They’re such a great way to earn extra storage and save you from having to dig something out from under something else (imagine how much more annoying that bottom drawer full of pots would be with these two pans on top of them – you’d have to dig out so many things to get to the stuff on the bottom).

Across from that drawer, the island has another hard-working drawer: the pullout trash can. We didn’t have a spot for one of Ikea’s standard trash can pull-outs (they require a wider base cabinet and we only had 15 inches here) so we kind of hacked our own. It’s just a single tall drawer-front that conceals a tall trash can that we found at the local hardware store. We screwed the bottom of the can into the drawer so that it doesn’t wiggle or bang around, but it still can be easily unscrewed if it needs to be removed (I can clean it in place, so in the last 2.5 years we haven’t taken it out yet). Also, please hold while I add “trash can model” to my resume.

One of my favorite drawers is the little “drink station” we made next to the sink in the island. Not only does it store our cups and mugs (some were in the dishwasher when we shot this, but all eight mugs and glasses fit in here just fine when they’re stacked two high). And we also use the space to wrangle tea and other drink mixes like my beloved dehydrated lemon packets.

As a sidenote, I’m not crazy about making all of my bins and boxes and trays match when they’re hidden inside a drawer, so this is quite a mish-mash: a leftover plastic bin from Target, a rectangular dish that worked for containing my lemon packets, and an old velvet jewelry organizer for my tea stuff. The main tip here = containers can up your cabinet game for sure, but don’t run to the container store and spend your life savings – look around and try to use whatever leftover things you have on hand if you can.

Underneath that drawer is what now appears to be an absurd amount of cloths and towels, but basically the ones on top are both kitchen and bath hand towels for the entire house, and down below are our microfiber cleaning cloths to go with the cleaning supplies that are housed under the sink. We’ve also got Ziploc baggies and to-be-reused plastic shopping bags in here too. Watch the video for a helpful (unhinged?) demonstration of that drawer’s organizational method.

Across from that drawer, back on the stove side of things, is one of our weirder drawers – but we’ve consistently created this type of drawer storage in every kitchen we’ve ever owned: tool storage. Up top we’ve got our junk drawer with pens, batteries, bandaids, etc – but below that are various tools and DIY supplies that we’re frequently grabbing (or that belong at the beach house, but felt like they’d get misplaced out in the shed). The middle drawer is kind of miscellaneous stuff (shims, wood glue, weather stripping) while the bottom is all of our painting stuff: brushes, rollers, trays, etc.

That takes care of most of the “main” part of the kitchen (aka, the stove area and the island) although the video shows you each drawer & system (and my whole thought process on why we put something in a certain spot) so if you want more details or have a question definitely try to watch that for what I hope will be some extra clarity (also you can see me go crazy and make two drawers devolve into chaos in about 3 seconds on film just to make a point – BECAUSE I’M PASSIONATE ABOUT DRAWER ORGANIZATION).

Ok, now onto the back wall of cabinetry by that back door that leads outside (it’s in the back of the photo above). This area was originally supposed to be our pantry because we purchased all of our cabinets before we decided that a little room off to the side of the kitchen would be a MUCH BETTER walk-in pantry than a breakfast nook (which was what we had originally planned). Each cabinet back here is 15″ deep instead of the standard 24″ and has just two 2 drawers (instead of 3) because we pictured things like big boxes of food or bags of chips going in here when the purpose in our heads had been: pantry.

But instead, they’ve become really useful for other general storage for the house, and they’re nicely disguised as kitchen cabinetry which is a win-win. We’ve stashed everything from extra vases & candles to dog food and even hot tub supplies over here. Also please watch the video to see what I keep in the candle/vase drawer that is INCREDIBLY RANDOM but clearly brings me so much joy as I hold it and swish it through the air.

It’s kinda the same story for the cabinets on the other side of the back door, although I wanted to make sure everyone was reassured that these are functional drawers. I guess in some pictures and videos people have worried they don’t open because of the door molding to the left of them, but you can see from the photo below that it fully opens just fine. There’s a filler piece on the side so that doorway trim doesn’t catch it at all.

The bottom drawer does hit the thicker plinth block on the doorframe before it’s 100% pulled out, but it’s just a few inches shy of being all the wsy open when it bumps that. So it hasn’t made the drawer any less functional for us (as I demonstrate so gracefully in the video – OMG you guys, insert the monkey covering his eyes emoji here please).

We knew this corner cabinet would be tight, but Ikea only has a certain number of stock drawer sizes. This is a 30″ base and the next size down would’ve been a 24″ and we wanted to avoid having to do some 6″ filler piece or something instead, so the fact that I can still pull this out to the plinth block and easily reach all the way to the back of the drawer is a-ok with us! Remember these drawers are shallow so you’re seeing basically the entire bottom drawer exposed here even with it hitting that plinth block.

Now let’s move into the pantry, where we’ve continued the same shallow wall of cabinets along the back wall. As you might guess, the drawers primarily store food items and the counter acts as a nice prep space for simple stuff like sandwich-making, cereal pouring, or grocery unpacking.

You can see these drawers a little more in the video, but once again it’s a hodge-podge of baskets and bins that we use to wrangle various snacks, breads, and other dry goods. We generally like to “unbox” foods like snack packs of peanuts or granola bars because it’s a lot faster to grab them out of an open bin. I also keep one drawer as my “Mommy Drawer” that has some of my vitamins, coconut oil, and other morning routine items all in one place. You know I’ve got an upper cabinet in our Richmond kitchen like this, so of course I had to make one at the beach too! I love grouping things that you use together in one spot for an autopilot morning routine that’s a lot easier to remember and follow.

The stack of drawers on the far side of the pantry isn’t food, it’s actually more DIY stuff – like light bulbs, spackle, caulk, and small paint and stains. Again, it might seem like a weird spot to store this stuff but even at our most full points in the summer (with guests and tons of food), we didn’t have enough food overflow to need these three drawers.

That’s partly because we still have the whole other side of the pantry to store more stuff. We DIYed these pantry shelves around our fridge and over the summer we bought a few more bins to make the most of each shelf – especially the lower ones that we were using every day.

We originally only had per shelf, but we realized that if we turned them 90-degrees, we could take full advantage of the depth of the shelves – thereby squeezing in a second bin on each shelf. DOUBLE THE STORAGE WITH ONE SPIN MOVE! These bins mostly house larger items that won’t fit in the drawers, like paper towels, big chip bags, cereal boxes, our big bottle of white vinegar for cleaning, etc.

If you want to see more of what’s in the kitchen (and even in the fridge – I open it Cribs-style) that’s all in the video at the top of this post. But hopefully that gives you an idea of how we made this space work for us!

Now if you’ll excuse me I’m off to look at what other photos and videos are living in purgatory on our camera that I thought we already shared….

P.S. To see how we created this kitchen, this post covers a lot of the progress and this one is all about brainstorming the backsplash, and this podcast covers what we got wrong in the beach house kitchen (and how we fixed it). Oh and here’s how we saved $1350 on kitchen appliances!

*This post contains affiliate links*

This content was originally published here.

Straight talk; what you need to know about Invisalign

If you are a self-conscious individual who hates the limelight, Invisalign in St John’s Wood might be the ultimate straightening device for you.

Invisible braces have been described as revolutionary straightening aids that correct teeth and bites using plastic trays.


How is Invisalign different from other orthodontic devices?

An obvious difference is the appearance of the device, which replaces regular metal used for conventional straightening devices with plastic aligner trays.

The clear plastic that covers your teeth is practically invisible, which is beneficial if you do not want others to know that you wear braces.

Apart from that, the trays are removable, which means that your lifestyle will not change as a result of wearing braces. You can follow the same teeth-cleaning techniques that you did before becoming an Invisalign user, and eat what you like without damaging your braces.

3D digital imaging is also incorporated into your treatment, used to track your progress and to ensure that your teeth are moving incrementally into their final, desired position.


How long will I have to wear the device for?

The results may vary between patients, but the average period is approximately from 9 to 12 months.


Can I remove the device whenever I want to?

One potential disadvantage, (depending on your self-discipline), of wearing these aligner trays is that you can easily take them out, so if you are forgetful this may be problematic.

The rule of thumb is that you should wear your device uninterrupted for 22 out of 24 hours for maximum effect, taking it out only to brush your teeth, eat, or to play contact sports.


How will Invisalign trays straighten my teeth?

The method of straightening teeth using Invisalign differs from conventional straightening methods.

With regular braces, wiring systems are used to exert pressure on all your teeth at once.

With invisible braces, every two weeks or so, you will receive an aligner tray that is differently shaped from the last. The purpose of this is to move a couple of teeth into their new positions at a time.


Can anyone become an Invisalign user?

While Invisalign or invisible braces can be extremely effective, they are better suited to treating mild to moderate malocclusions and misalignments, so if yours is a complicated or unique dental issue, you might have to find an alternative device.


Is Invisalign designed for children?

Given that Invisalign can correct dental imperfections, it can be used by adults and children alike.

In today’s world, no matter what your age, it is never too late for braces.


How often should I see my orthodontist?

The number of times one should see their orthodontist varies between practices, but once every six weeks seems to be the average.

These appointments are quick check-ups that determine whether your treatment is on course.


What do I do if I lose my retainer?

Retainers can be replaced, but remember that because they need to be remade, you will need to pay for the expense. If you are absent-minded, it is an idea to store your retainer in a suitable container when you are not using it, to avoid misplacing or contaminating it.

How We Added Decorative Wall Molding To Our Master Bathroom | Young House Love

First, we gotta say THANK YOU for sharing in our excitement for our big duplex news (if you missed it you can listen to this week’s podcast or read the entire thing here). But back to our bathroom molding….

You know we love a DIY wall treatment just as much as the next blogger, but I think we have a new favorite: the thick framing that we added to our master bathroom. And it almost didn’t happen – which is so crazy when we think back on it because we both agree that it’s one of the best decisions we made throughout this entire room makeover. And it was one of the smaller costing line items compared to a lot of other updates we did in there (gotta love when that happens!). We still have some finishing touches to put on the room before we’re ready to “reveal” it fully (like a bathroom door would be nice – and we’re also going to share a full budget breakdown in that big “after” post) but I know that many of you are eager to hear about this particular project, so let’s dive in.

Oh, and the good news is that as long as you’re comfortable with a miter saw and a nail gun, it’s not nearly as complicated as it looks.

Picking A Molding Style

The funny thing is that Sherry and I were on the fence about adding the molding up until the last minute. On one hand, we worried that it could be overkill, especially with such an intricate tone on tone tile pattern in the shower nearby. And it would certainly be simpler and cheaper to just leave the walls as they were, right?

But on the other hand, we couldn’t fight the feeling that a wall treatment of some sort would elevate the entire room – especially because Sherry had pinned a few rooms like this when we started the renovation, which really wowed us.

As you know, we ultimately decided to go for it. We’ve never regretted any of the other molding or wood wall treatments we’ve done. They add instant architecture and dimension to any space – especially an uninteresting hallway or basic boxy room. As for the links to those past projects where we used various types of wood wall treatments, there’s the faux shiplap in the duplex (only $31), and the board & batten projects in our last home’s hallway (only $57!), our current home’s hall upgrade (I think that was about $300 because it’s a super long hallway), and our beach house’s middle bedroom (which was $194 total). So we figured one way or another we’d be able to create something we liked, and we knew it would be in the hundreds, not thousands (which is a nice selling point when you’re doing a full gut job on a room, and many other line items have a lot more zeros).

Then it was just about figuring out exactly what treatment we thought would look good in here. Sorting through all of our pins helped us decide on doing something like Lindsay’s bathroom (pictured above on the left). I don’t know exactly what it’s called, but instead of a box molding – like those in the other inspo pics above – we liked the way it almost looks like recessed panels, kinda like this other picture below. We thought that detail would add some nice depth to the walls while still not being crazy busy looking. And we liked the thickness and substantial feeling of the boards.

We were under a serious time crunch to make some decisions at this point (more on that in next week’s podcast) so – and here comes some really great advice, okay? – we just kinda winged it. But in a weird way I think the tight timeline was something that helped it turn out so well because it meant that we just had to go for it and not overthink it too much.

Materials & Supplies

Our method to identifying what combo of certain boards and trim pieces made our eyeballs the happiest was just us standing in Home Depot and playing around with various combos of wood and trim that they had available. I’ll spare you the play-by-play, but we basically landed on this arrangement:

*that’s actually a 1×3″ pictured below. We bought a bunch of it to give ourselves that other option when we got home, but ended up liking the chunkier 1×4″ boards a lot more when we held them up in the space.

Base cap was the secret weapon of this project and if you’re not familiar, it’s often used as a literal cap to your baseboards. In fact, it’s what we have throughout the duplex. Sometimes it’s hard to find, so here’s a photo of how it’s labeled in Home Depot if that helps. My advice would be to buy more than you think you need. We ended up cleaning out our sparsely-stocked Home Depot and had to drive to another one the next day…. and still had to go back again for more a third time.

Beyond the actual wood itself, to complete the project we also used:

**Both of these power tools could be substituted with manual alternatives (hammer/nails & a manual miter box) but using the power versions will make your project a lot faster & less exhausting. Take our scrap pile below as proof of how much cutting is involved. And this isn’t even all of it!

Installing The Wall Treatment

Because we were working on a tight deadline before the plumbers arrived to install everything (thus partially blocking our access to the walls – which is why it was now or never) we didn’t take any progress shots during the cutting and nailing portion of this project. Well except for this strangely elegant one of me holding the first boards up so Sherry had an opportunity to speak or forever hold her peace before I started nailing stuff. I call it: Accidental Black Swan.

Also I should explain that we had just finished tiling the floor the day before so not all of the mortar was fully set. That meant we couldn’t walk on the first couple of rows of tile and had to basically hop into the room. We used a big painters tape check mark to mark the closest walkable tile (which meant: step here!) and the adjacent still-wet tile with a big X (as in: don’t you dare step on this one!). How’s that for a renovation reality? It worked though.

Anyways, back to the molding…

In these yet-to-be-caulked-and-painted photos you can hopefully still see how we accomplished the final look. The chair rail and vertical slats were all made of 1×4″ boards, which we nailed in using 1.5″ nails and our cordless finish nail gun.

We tried to hit studs for the horizontal boards just to be safe, but didn’t worry about it for our vertical slats since we didn’t want our studs to determine their placement. I know some people swear by glue or liquid nails for these projects, but we try to avoid using them because it will make removing them (if you or a future homeowner ever decides to) much more damaging to the drywall underneath. Plus we’ve found that the combo of finish nails + caulk + paint gives the boards a ton of “adhesion,” as long as you don’t plan to hang anything super heavy on them (like wall hooks, mirrors, or large artwork – in which case using a heavy duty anchor is a good idea).

We used the 1×6″ boards along the ceiling and floor to act as crown and baseboards, respectively. And then, as you can see, we “framed” the inside edge of every box with base cap pieces with mitered cuts at the corners.

Along the way we learned the best order of installation typically was this:

We didn’t follow this order every time, but this generally made for the fewest cuts/seams. Oh and we also considered adding a traditional crown molding around the ceiling but when we held some up it looked too busy (at least in our 8ft tall ceilings).

Figuring Out The Height & Spacing

I know you’re probably curious about how we determined the height of the boxes. Again, this was a wing-it moment, but two things guided our final decision. For one, we wanted it to cut the room about 1/3rd of the way up (at least roughly) because the human eye tends to like things split that way.

Our ceilings are 8 feet tall, so 32″ would’ve been precisely 1/3rd – but we ended up doing ours a smidge higher (about 38″ to the top of the 1×4″ chair rail). And here’s why. We also knew that we needed the top of the vanity and the chair rail to line up in a pleasing way. As in we wanted the counter to rest flush against the chair rail (since the feet would be flush against the baseboard). If the chair rail was too high or too low, we could end up with a gap behind the counter. We also didn’t want the vanity to cut off the chair rail in a weird way visually – like just a sliver of it peeking out or something.

Since the vanity was yet-to-be-installed at this point, we took some careful measurements so we were sure the chair rail would hit the vanity right where we wanted it. We also double-checked this placement to make sure it would relate nicely to other objects in the room – like the toilet (which ended up being nicely framed by the bottom box) and the tub (the bottom middle box creates a nice boundary around the wall-mounted faucets).

Beyond determining the height of the chair rail, we also had to figure out how to space the vertical slats. You know, how wide or narrow our “boxes” would be. Early on we discovered that the secret was NOT to create equal-sized boxes around the room. Instead we evaluated each wall individually and determined the best-looking spacing for that particular wall. So where the mirrors would go, creating one big box made sense – whereas over the toilet or on the smaller walls flanking the closet doorway it made sense to have smaller boxes.

Essentially this choice made a lot of things feel more centered and balanced and well planned – and in the end we really love this solution. Some boxes were big while others were skinnier, which worried us at first (inconsistency, ack!) but we really wouldn’t change a thing about how this turned out. It elevated the room so much and feels completely high end.

As a concrete example, if we had used the exact same spacing on the vanity wall below as is shown on the wall above (which was our first instinct), the vertical slats would’ve intersected the mirrors in a way that would made them look off-centered or askew. So instead, we created just one big box over the vanity so everything was nicely contained within it.

Same for over the toilet – one box. Essentially each wall and the items on it determined the box size and shape. So long story short, I encourage you to use some artistic license to adjust your board placement so it looks best in your particular space and on each particular wall.

Caulking & Hole Filling

I know it sounds like there are lots of mental gymnastics involved in this project, but it was less complicated than it sounds. This undertaking is more tedious than anything (Exhibit A: our scrap wood pile shown earlier in the post). The other tedious part of this is the caulking. OH THE CAULKING. We went through 4 or 5 tubes in our bathroom because you basically have to caulk every place your boards meet each other or a wall. Not to mention you should putty all of your nail holes (we like to use this stuff to make it fast and one-handed).

The photo below shows how much of a difference caulk makes – especially in softening that dark shadow between the flat boards and the base cap.

But as cumbersome as the caulking step can be, it was well worth it in the end because it really makes the whole thing look like one seamless treatment, rather than a wide variety of wood pieces nailed to the wall in a giant combo move.

Budget Breakdown

Even though this project doesn’t have a long materials list (basically just wood) – it can add up fairly quickly depending on the size of your space (ours is 8′ x 13′, minus the shower area). You can save some money by buying unprimed versions of the wood and priming it yourself, but with our deadline it was worth it for us to not add that extra step.

It certainly was one of our more expensive wall treatment DIYs: our faux shiplap duplex backsplash cost us only $31 (just one wall) and our beach house board & batten was $198 for a whole room). But since it has turned out to be one of our favorite elements in the room, we have zero regrets about spending a little more for this final result.

And don’t worry, once we’ve got the bathroom all wrapped up we’ll share all of the before & afters – along with a total budget breakdown for the renovation. Nobody is more excited to finish this space than we are!

P.S. To read previous posts about how this room has come together, there’s this one all about our floor planning & tile selections, this one about a bunch of general bathroom progress, and this one about our entire closet renovation (from beginning to end, plus a budget breakdown & video tour).

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Our Big Closet Makeover – The Budget, The Video Tour, And The Before & Afters | Young House Love

This post is going to cover a lot of ground. Not only are we sharing before & after photos and a video tour about how we organized it all, we’re also spilling how much the whole thing cost, tossing out some closet planning tips to help you tackle an update yourself, and the details on how we made it all look built-in like a bonafide custom closet (with just $65 of wood!). First let’s get to the eyeball-related things: the before & afters. Also, please note how badly Burger wanted to be in this post. Photobombs out the wazoo.

This little room of ours has come a long way. The photo below shows how we even upgraded the entrance to the closet. See that super narrow doorway? It was 22″ wide (WHYYY?!?!?) and not centered on that wall (again…. WHYYY?!?!). For reference, John’s shoulder to shoulder measurement is 20″. Yes, that means he had about an inch of clearance on each side when he walked through that old doorway every day for the last six years that we’ve lived here. We took the door that used to be there right off the hinges right after we moved in because with the door in that opening John couldn’t get through without sliding in sideways.

Taking the time to widen and center the opening made a huge difference in the feeling of the space. Plus it allowed us to add built-ins along each side wall for a completely symmetrical feeling when you step inside. We went with a nice wide 34″ doorway when we reframed that opening, which is the widest we could do while still allowing space for the cabinetry on each side to tuck behind the doorway.

We kept the exact same footprint as the original closet – we just packed it with about 948% more function. The raw size of the closet was 8′ wide by 6′ deep, so that’s what we were working with. Why not change the actual footprint of the closet? Well, it would have been a lot more money/trouble to move the entire wall versus just widening/centering the doorway, and once we realized we could fit a shower and a separate tub (along with a HUGE double vanity) in our bathroom’s footprint, we had zero desire to steal any more space from this room. Here’s the floor plan for reference:

Another reason we knew we’d use every inch of this closet’s original footprint is because we had a goal of not only working in our clothing & shoe storage, but also squeezing in a linen closet and adding extras like a built-in hamper, a drop-zone for donations, etc. This is a flashback to what we had going on in the old closet. It was pretty much just one long hanging bar on my side with shoes stored on the floor on some old shoe racks. John had a dresser with his clothes in it as well as two hanging bars on his side (and more old shoe racks on the floor).


John was trying to pose me to look the same as the before picture above it from October of 2018 (can you believe that’s how long it’s been since I shared this post about my minimal wardrobe?) and it just went horribly wrong. But try to look beyond my Vanna White impression at the actual background, because I was trying to stand in the same spot as the picture above to demonstrate what a game changer built-in storage can be in a space like this. Again, this room is 8′ wide by 6′ deep for anyone wondering.

Here’s another good demonstration of what we had going on in there. That dresser (which later moved out into our bedroom) got replaced with a simple white Malm from Ikea, but you can see John’s side of things here.

You can also see how the room started out with carpeting in that before pic on the left (the old beige carpet carried into the sink vanity area – so we gleefully ripped it out and stenciled the subfloor as a “temporary measure to tide us over” until we did a real bathroom/closet reno). Little did we know it would be 6 years… but dang was it worth the wait!

Here’s one more flashback to how things looked in this closet over the last half-decade. This photo was from before we moved this wood inlay dresser to the beach house (it’s hilarious how much we switch our dressers) and it’s a better shot of Burger’s crate and the other stuff that used to live on the floor of this space. As for where Burger lives now, our prince got upgraded to the bedroom. He likes carpet more than tile & Burger gets what Burger wants. Truly the irony is that he has never spent more time in the closet than when we were taking the photos for this post.

But back to the finished closet. Here’s John’s side. I just can’t even impress upon you how much we enjoy walking into this space now. We lived 6 years without this closet, so it’s not like we can’t survive without it, but boy is it nice to have an organized and customized place for all of our things. Literally everything we hoped to have a spot for, now has a designated place. And instead of half of my wardrobe living out in drawers in the bedroom (and me having to walk back and forth to assemble an outfit) it’s all in one place: this closet.

Why We Used Ikea Pax

There’s a reason if you search “Ikea pax closet” on Pinterest, you’ll find pages and pages of closets full of this system. It’s a REALLY customizable way to get a completely built-in looking closet system that can store every single item that you have in every single way that you’d like (using drawers, doors, pull outs, shelves – even upscale looking clear drawer fronts and felt-lined jewelry trays).

I shared the above left closet as one of our inspirations back in this planning post in October, but truly if you search “Ikea pax closet” on Pinterest you can find tons of them (like Chris & Julia’s lovely one from their last house, and this one by The DIY Playbook). You can even click around to see how people organized them inside. Hello, my name is Nosy.

Plus we’re huge fans of using the Ikea closet planning software, which is what we did to pre-plan some ideas before heading to Ikea and meeting with a closet expert there who helped us finalize things and put in our entire order. The rendering below is where we started at home, and then a few things evolved once we stood in the store and got a better idea of scale and height and stuff, which are hard to grasp online.

One other reason we went with a Pax closet system? We were existing happy customers! We used these exact same closets 11 years ago in our first house! We added Ikea Pax wardrobes on either side of the bed all the way back in 2008, which created so much more vertical storage and function for us in that room (who remembers this post?)! And the truly hilarious thing about John’s side of those built-ins from 11 years ago is that the way he planned his central wardrobe for our current closet is nearly identical to the one he designed 11 years ago for his side of the bed! How funny is that? If it ain’t broke…

Organization Video Tour

Ok, but now on to how we organized the entire closet. We filmed this video tour so I could throw open every door and drawer for you to see exactly what goes where, why we wanted certain closet features for certain purposes, and how we fit everything in – from a hidden hamper to an entire linen closet!

You can also watch the video here on YouTube

For anyone who can’t watch the video right now, below are a few photos, but they’re not nearly as exhaustive as the video (plus you get to see the pullouts in action, etc). So I highly recommend coming back to watch that when you have a few minutes to spare later on. Also for the dozens of people who are going to ask if short ol’ me can reach X, Y, and Z (it happens every time we share a closet post or a stacked laundry setup – ha!) you can see me reaching everything in the video. Like a boss.

I also tried to cover some closet planning tips too (like how 3M command velcro strips can come in handy!) so that’s all in there for you. But back to the photos. You can see all three of my hanging bars here. I did jackets & long sleeved shirts on the middle hanging bar, and then silky tanks and short sleeved tops on that top right hanging bar, and dresses on that bottom right hanging bar.

I didn’t do one long hanging bar because I don’t need one (more on that in the video), but definitely plan the closet you need. If you have long dresses that necessitate a longer hanging area – work that into your design. Another nice thing about the Ikea Pax system is that it’s super flexible. If we sell this house in a decade or two and the next owner wants a long hanging spot, they can just remove that lower bar in the right cabinet and boom: longer hanging area achieved!

This is more of a straight on shot. I love that thanks to having a pretty small wardrobe (more on that here) I have some really nice space between my hangers instead of it all feeling packed in there. Kinda feels like I have my own boutique and that’s one of the many reasons I love a small wardrobe in the first place. I adore the feeling of a simplified closet & the ease of finding everything I’m looking for in one second flat. Plus it saves me money and I’m not storing a bunch of stuff I don’t actually use or wear (more on that here).

This compartment all the way to the left on my side of the closet is my favorite area of the entire room (well, it might be tied with the arched mirror). It’s where I have my purses and clutches & scarves and even a leopard hair tie (hanging bar + pullout hook rail = extremely flexible storage). Also: gimme leopard everything.

Down below that section (which I Vanderpump-ed with some leopard heels and a leopard clutch because I’m from New Jersey and it’s my love language), I also have a glass shelf that looks down on my beloved jewelry pullout, which makes me feel SO FANCY I CAN’T EVEN TELL YOU.

To be able to see everything through the glass, and then pull it out and grab what I want?! Let’s just say it was worth the six year wait and then some. And see how perfectly the felted tray fits into the pullout, and how polished the glass shelf looks? I feel like this is where the Pax wardrobe system really shines.

It looks so upscale, but the price of these fittings is pretty affordable – especially in the scheme of redoing an entire closet. The jewelry tray & pullout that it sits in were $40, and the glass shelf above them was just $25 and so much nicer than a basic white shelf that would have covered it all. I mean, I feel like you can spend $65 on a tabletop jewelry box, and this just has so much more built-in appeal to me. We didn’t splurge for these fancy upgrades anywhere else, but just this one spot where I did makes me so happy. This closet is my lobster. Also John is my lobster for now clearly being able to see how much leopard print I own and still loving me.

Below my little jewelry station, you can see my three shoe pullouts. I chose pullouts because a fixed shelf at that height would mean I’d have to kneel on the floor and take out a pair of shoes in the front to get to the ones in the back, versus having a pullout that comes to you (and you don’t have to kneel or remove anything to access anything else). The main point is that I can remain on my feet and still get the shoes in the back versus crawling on the floor like a person playing laser tag.

Burger really likes my bedazzled shoes, ok?

Also it should be noted that alllll of my regular shoes are stored downstairs in our little built-in mudroom so these are just lesser used shoes that I typically wear for special occasions, which is just like my jewelry (I wear the same small studded everyday jewelry & just add dangly earrings for special occasions). That is the ONLY REASON I’m cool with pullouts behind doors. I am of the mindset that everyday clothing (like underwear, t-shirts, or jeans) that are stored in a drawer behind a door is one too many barriers for entry for me. Might not be for you though. All that is to say: know thyself when planning a closet. Only add drawers or pullouts with doors in front of them if you’re certain that move won’t bug you. For me, doing that a few times a day = way too much. But once or twice a week = just fine.

Now moving over to John’s side (again – you can see A LOT MORE of what’s in each drawer in the video – even if you watch without the sound on). But this shot is a good demonstration of just how nice some well-planned storage can be for taming the insanity of allll the different things that are being stored. Look how clean this looks:

And yet, when things are open you can see JUST HOW MUCH STORAGE, GLORIOUS STORAGE IS BACK THERE! Nice tall spot for a hamper and even a stepladder for me to reach the top shelves? Check! Hats and undershirts and socks? Check! Bathing suits and long sleeved shirts and short sleeved shirts and sleep shorts? Check! We literally planned these drawers and shelves and hanging bars to house all of the things we have – and then some!

Make sure that you take inventory from home before planning online with their closet software and then bring notes with you about exactly what you have when you’re in the store as well. Don’t just write down obvious stuff like how many drawers you’d ideally have or how many hanging bars you want. Actually count how many shoes you want to store for example. That’s great intel to be armed with to build your closet around.

Sure your number of shoes can and probably will change over time (and these closets are SUPER flexible, which is great) but going in with a target number of things that you want to be able to store is key for actually coming home with the right items to achieve that goal. For example if you know you have 12 pairs of shoes that’s totally different than going and being like “I think maybe I have 7 pairs?” and returning home to see 12 and immediately wishing you had added one more shelf or pullout for the extra ones. Do the extra twenty minutes of work to inventory stuff so your new closet doesn’t come up short right off the bat.

And now, I’ll introduce you to our linen closet! It’s essentially this entire right wardrobe on John’s side, thanks to him only needing a few pullouts at the bottom for lesser used shoes (remember, his everyday shoes are downstairs in the hidden mudroom too).

You can see where we have our beach towels and bath towels, as well as our sheets in those pullout drawers. Once again, I don’t mind these drawers being behind a door because we change the sheets weekly, so we’re not battling the door/drawer combo daily or anything). As for other “linen closet” items in here, there’s even a packing blanket (great for moving furniture from criagslist!) and a spare pillow on the shelf up top that’s just out of frame in this pic (you can see it in the closet video!). Gaining a full service linen closet right off of the bathroom within the existing square footage of our closet?! IT FEELS GLORIOUS.

We actually had a linen closet within the bathroom before, but ripping it out gave us a much more open layout full of a lot more light while also allowing us to have A BRAND NEW FREESTANDING TUB! So we’re all for removing a linen closet and working it in somewhere else if it means you can earn the tub of your dreams (and it is literally a tub that I dream about). We also have a hall closet where we store luggage and wrapping paper and a few upstairs cleaning supplies that we could have squished and added linens to, but it was a much better option for us to work it into our closet. It’s all nice and flexible though – so if someone else with more clothes moves in down the road and wants this to just be a regular closet, they could SO EASILY move the linens into the hall closet. Storage options abound.

Oh and one quick tip for your hamper. Be sure when you’re planning the closet that you don’t just make a compartment for it that’s the height of the hamper, because you need room above it for your hand to go in and out easily.

Allow John to model that action for you:

And since we’re modeling different closet actions all of a sudden, here I am showing you that the little white step stool that we worked into the closet actually does allow me to reach those baskets on the top section of the closet. Have I told you people commonly doubt that I can reach anything without photo evidence?

We have actually decided to use these two large exposed baskets for donations & hand-me-downs (the kids outgrow things so quickly, and we often have things we want to donate but no real system for them, so they sit on the dining table or by the door forever). Having a designated spot to store them all while they accumulate will be such an upgrade from awkwardly moving spare piles of things all over the house for months on end.

Also, one other closet tip that we touched on yesterday in our newsletter were these awesome and super cheap plugs that Ikea sells to cover all of the dark holes throughout their wardrobes. If they don’t bother you, skip them, but at a little over a dollar for 100 plugs, I WAS ALL IN. We did nearly every hole in here but ran a little short. There are a few remaining holes towards the back that I still want to fill, so we picked up some extra bags at Ikea on Monday.

It looks nice and polished once they’re in, so I’m psyched that Ikea makes them. I think they’re relatively new but should work on older wardrobes and billy bookcases if those holes bug you.

Another perk to this closet system? The soft close feature! It comes standard in drawers and pullouts and doors! You can actually see them in action in the video. I love that there’s no upcharge for that.

Overall, my main tips for building a closet that works harder for you would be:

How We Made It Look Built in

A big part of making Ikea Pax wardrobes look more expensive and custom than they are (for that fancy closet vibe that a Jersey girl with bedazzled shoes like me adores) is building them in so they look like part of the room.

Again, our closet is 8′ wide x 6′ deep, so with a little research & planning we realized we could fit two of their 93″ tall and 19″ wide wardrobe boxes flanking one centered 29″ box (also in that 93″ height) on each 6′ side of the closet. This left a couple of spare inches on the outside edges, plus about 3″ on the top (our ceilings are just shy of standard 8′ ones in here). So luckily there weren’t huge gaps to fill in order to make them look like they truly go wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling.

We had loosely planned to add crown molding and baseboard, but neither would actually fit in those small gaps since our ceiling was under 8′, and we decided that the other wall molding that we added to the room made us want to keep it simple around the closets so things didn’t compete. The goal was just to make them look simple and clean so the more interesting molding could steal the spotlight around the mirror and in the adjoined bathroom. But if you have more height to play with, you can see how we added baseboard and crown molding to another Ikea piece in those two posts.

The secret to making Ikea stuff look built in is to make sure you’re adding pieces that end up being flush with the doors, not just the boxes (this is especially important when doing an Ikea kitchen). The method we like to use is a two-board approach. You nail a first board (which doesn’t have to be precisely cut) to be flush with the cabinet or closet box. This is easy to do with a nail gun, right through the inside edge of the box. The white thicker board sitting across the top of each of the wardrobes below is this first board:

Then you nail your second board to the first board, which should be pretty precisely cut. Ikea sells filler pieces for this purpose, but you can also use primed 3/4″ boards like we did here and just paint them to match the Ikea wardrobe (literally just bring home some white swatches, find one that matches, and grab a little quart of paint for a really nice finished look).

We repeated this technique around the sides, first filling the gap next to the wardrobe box, and then adding a second piece of trim nailed into that in front so it’s flush with the doors (skip the second one if you’re going doorless and just make everything flush to the boxes). This is the exact nail gun that we used & we used 1.5″ nails for this.

Here’s another photo that shows what the two-board system looks like. These are the side pieces that we used to fill the gaps against the walls. The other primed boards on the left side of the picture are just part of the molding treatment we did in the closet and bathroom, so ignore those if you’re not adding that as well. And yes, John is going to write a post about how we did that fancy molding very soon for everyone asking. I think it’s the single best thing we did to elevate the entire feeling of the closet and bathroom! And it wasn’t that expensive at all!

Once everything is nailed in place, you just have the fun/tedious task of filling all of your nail holes (this guy makes quick work of that) and caulking your seams (this is our favorite caulk for this job). You can see how unfinished the seams and cracks look in the photo below versus the picture under this one when they’re all filled and painted.

Speaking of paint, after you’ve caulked and filled your holes, the last step is just to paint all the primed wood that you added whatever color you’ve determined looks closest to your cabinetry in the lighting situation that you’re dealing with (we used Behr’s White – that’s the actual name of the color).

When the dust clears and the paint dries, it’s pretty amazing what $65 worth of wood can do to make an entire closet feel way more polished. Speaking of the how much things cost…

The Budget Breakdown

Let’s break this sucker down. Here’s what we spent to make a bare 8′ wide by 6′ deep box of a room work a whole lot harder for us:

*Note: this total doesn’t include the tile/electrical/drywall repair/etc that we did in the closet at the same time as the bathroom since it’s tough to break out the cost for just this space. That’ll all be in the bathroom budget breakdown though, so stay tuned for that!

And for anyone who might have a similarly sized closet but a lower budget – a quick way to slim down this closet cost would be fewer pullouts/drawers and more shelves (they’re significantly cheaper), you could also skip the doors, and grab a cheaper mirror at HomeGoods or even a thrift shop. I’ve been dreaming about this arched one for years & knew it would tie into the brass bathroom mirrors I’ve also loved forever, so I went for it when it got marked down during a big pre-Christmas sale. No regrets!!!

While we’re on the budget topic, we got asked a few times if we considered other systems – like the Elfa stuff from The Container Store. We definitely did but for many of the reasons we outlined above, Ikea’s Pax system won out. For anyone looking for a cost comparison, this much less built in looking Elfa system from The Container Store (in 6′ widths just like the two in our closet) seems to run about $1680 for two (that’s the current sale price, marked down from the original price of $2400 for two!). When we add up all of the Ikea parts for ours, including delivery it comes to $1574 for both 6′ sides of our closet, and that includes a lot more drawers and doors and pullouts (with soft close features!) and a much more built-in look that we personally prefer.

Just for fun I googled around to find out the average cost of a true “custom closet” and according to this site those typically cost between $3,000–$5,000. That’s interesting to know because I honestly had no idea (I’m the person who assumes all the Housewives closets are at least a million dollars on their own – you know, before they add all the Birkins and the boudoir photos of themselves).

Ok, that feels like a good note to end on. Hope you enjoyed this beefy burrito of a post about the closet. We’re planning to finish off the bathroom soon and share all of that info, although it probably won’t be next week. But… SOON! And if you want to see it almost finished, here’s a huge update post we shared a little while ago. So close to the finish line I can taste it.

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